Your Pets World

Doggy Podcast Goes Live!

2011-02-07T10:03:00.001-08:00

The Canine Connection Podcast is a 10-part series, with each episode released every Monday for 10 weeks, starting on Monday 31st January 2011. The entire series will be available to download from iTunes shortly but in the mean time, click here to listen and subscribe to the series.

Each week features me, Jez Rose, and my co-host Caroline, offer advice to listeners' dog problems, fascinating dog facts and an interview each week with a celebrity from the dog world including, star of It's Me Or The Dog Victoria Stilwell, founder of puppy training Dr Ian Dunbar and best-selling author Jean Donaldson. Fun and education all-in-one!

Roger Abrantes, PhD in Ethology and Evolutionary Biology and author of the best-selling book ‘Dog Language’ has this to say about The Canine Connection Podcast: “Well done Jez, I strongly recommend this podcast to all dog owners and trainers as well. Keep up and enjoy!”

Stop My Dog Jumping Up

2011-01-17T09:59:00.001-08:00

If your dog jumps up at you or visitors to your home, or even people in the street – relax! It’s a very common yet easily rectifiable “problem” that is simply a result of your dog’s excitement to greet other people and as unwelcome as it may be, I’d rather a dog that greeted people in a friendly way than an aggressive way!

But the solution is not in pushing your dog away, spraying it with water, blasting it with a canister of air or throwing things at it – these punitive, abusive training techniques are based on outdated methods that have been long superseded by scientific methods to alter behaviour positively. All you need is a helper, your dog’s collar (or harness) and lead and some tasty treats – I use Trainers Secret 100% natural liver training treats and highly recommend them (available exclusively from dog & bone). How long will it take? Good question! We’re all busy and don’t have time to embark on long-winded training programs. My ‘personal best’ for teaching a dog not to jump up is 4 seconds. The longest yet is a mere 1 minute 9 seconds: my technique is a very straightforward one that is incredibly powerful because it uses the dog’s natural desire for attention as the key motivator and reward.

1. Enlist the help of a friend and give them a small supply of treats.
2. Secure your dog’s collar and lead.
3. Hold your dog’s lead at the end so that the dog can physically jump up (if you don’t allow them to jump up and get it wrong, they won’t learn what the correct thing is).
4. Stand still and anchor your feet to the floor and your elbows to your hips. When your dog pulls, you must do nothing at all: simply allow the dog to jump up.
5. Have your friend approach you and your dog with a friendly face, possibly even saying “hello!” to your dog in an excited tone.
6. As soon as your dog jumps up at your friend, have them say “too bad”, turn around and walk off. It needs to be short and succinct as we are showing the dog the ultimatum: if you jump up at people, they’ll simply walk off and you won’t get any attention at all.
7. Have your friend repeat the same process, turning and walking away each time the dog jumps up at them.
8. As the dog realises that jumping up isn’t working any longer, without being asked, the dog will offer an alternative behaviour. When the dog sits, your friend can continue to approach, praise and reward with a treat. The first time the dog sits and your friend continues to approach the dog, quite often the dog will get excited and jump up again so the same rules as before apply: have them say “too bad”, turn and walk away.

Patience is the key, combined with a consistent approach: the dog only gets praise and a reward when they remain sitting.

Remember that dog’s learning is very linear: if you teach a dog not to jump up while you’re in the garden, that is exactly what they learn – not to jump up in the garden! So once you and your dog have got the hang of it, change environments to really embed the new training: arrange to meet your friend on a planned walk, have them come to your front door a few times and of course in the hallway, too.

The Best Training Treats Ever!

2011-01-17T09:58:00.001-08:00

Many people ask me what treats they should use when training their dog and without hesitation, I recommend Trainer’s Secret. They are a 100% natural liver treat, prepared by hand and dehydrated to last for 6 months with no special storage. It’s a fantastic product and endorsed by Dr Ian Dunbar, the founder of puppy training and father of modern, lure-reward dog training. Here’s what he has to say about them:

“Trainer’s Secret is the perfect training reward for dogs of all ages. And perfect too as an occasional treat — just because you love your dog. My dogs loved Trainer’s Secret and I’m sure yours will too.”

What’s more, Kelly Dunbar, founder of Dog Star Daily thinks they’re awesome, too! Here’s what one of the most influential women in dog training thinks of Trainer’s Secret:

“Fantastic! Nice size, with lots of flavour and odour to make them very appealing to dogs, but not crumbly nor greasy. More importantly, the dogs loved ‘em.”

Trainer’s Secret are your secret weapon in dog training, exclusive to dog & bone. For details and to order, click here!

How To Stop My Dog Barking

2011-01-17T09:57:00.001-08:00

Barking is only one part of a dog’s language, however, with much more communication happening non-verbally, we don’t notice the silent bits (the tail wagging, head turning, whining, teeth baring etc) – which is a shame as it would help put the barking into context and allow more people to realise that barking is simply the sound of a language. Asking a dog not to bark is akin to them asking us to stop talking!

Why Do Dogs Bark?
Contrary to popular belief, dogs don’t bark to annoy us and don’t bark to be “dominant”. There is always a reason for their barking – even if sometimes it is simply for fun (self-perpetuating barking is a classic sign of boredom and a lack of stimulation). Dogs bark for a variety of reasons and each bark has a unique sound to it which helps us understand what they are communicating and therefore, why they are barking:

Boredom and frustration
(an endless row of static barking, the same tone over and over again sometimes ending in a howl. Repetitively, the entire sequence is repeated)
As an audible warning (to warn about an intruder, for example)
(short, sharp “woof” noises)
Excitement
(high frequency and often sounds hysterical. The barking is fairly constant or in a series of barks with short interludes. Sometimes there are whines between the barking)
Fear
(high-pitched, it comes in a long series of barks. Similar to excitement barking, however, you can clearly hear the fear in the dog’s bark. Sometimes the long series of barking will end in a howl, a call for help, as if crying out to the puppy’s mother)
Guard barking
(usually interspersed with growling: “grrrrrr – bark, bark – grrrrrr”. It is normally depper and shorter than fear barking, however, if the dog is afraid then the sound can be high-pitched and similar to fear barking)
Learned barking
(the dog will bark, take a break and then look around to seek attention or reinforcement caused by the barking. If the attention is not forthcoming, the barking will start again)

To generically stop a dog from barking without any regard as to understanding why the dog is barking is foolhardy. Suppressing barking can be dangerous if the dog learns to avoid barking for fear of punishment – imagine the dog that has been shouted at and punished for barking so then doesn’t bark to warn the child that is annoying it and simply goes straight to bite without warning. Many people ask me how to stop their dog from barking and my initial reply is to ask: “why does your dog bark?”. Many people don’t know but they will be able to identify a pattern for the barking, for example, when you get the dog’s lead out (excited); when people knock on the front door (guarding, fear, excitement) or when another dog passes you in the car (guarding, excitement, fear), which will indicate the dog’s reasoning.

Barking is a self-rewarding behaviour, so ignoring it will not make it go away. Punishing it is completely ineffective and can have serious consequences and far too many trainers have resulted in the past to punishing the dog for barking using air canisters, metal discs or spraying the dog with water. That’s the equivalent of smacking a baby for crying, or punching your spouse for speaking.

One of the most effective ways to stop your dog from excessively barking is to channel its energy and focus into something else (for example having him go find his favourite toy when someone knocks on the front door) or even to use those times when you know the dog will bark (like when you get ready to go for a walk) to teach the dog to bark on cue. From teaching the dog to bark on cue it is very straightforward and effective to then teach the dog to be “quiet” on cue.

Teaching your dog to bark on cue
1. Request the dog to “speak” or “bark”, using whichever cue you prefer.
2. Activate the barking by taking the dog’s lead out or knocking on the front door, for example
3. The dog duly barks
4. Praise and reward the dog
5. Several repetitions of this and you will have a fog that will bark on cue

To train the ‘barking antidote’, simply wait until the dog is barking, give the desired cue (“quiet” or “shush”) and put a tasty treat such as Trainers Secret liver treats or a small piece of sausage or bacon under the dog’s nose. Dogs cannot bark and smell at the same time. Praise and reward as soon as the dog stops barking.

Remember – barking is a normal and natural behaviour for dogs so there’s no point trying to stop it completely. Just as crying children can be unpleasant to hear but we need to understand that they are simply trying to tell us something, use your knowledge and understanding to try to find out what it is the dog is communicating.

My Dog Growls When I Go Near His Food

2011-01-17T09:41:00.000-08:00

“She’s a bit tricky around her food bowl”. It’s surprising how many adolescent dogs still display a tendency to guard food and objects, yet their owners do nothing about it. Whereas playful food and object guarding are quite normal, and to be expected, in developing puppies, defensive guarding behaviour cannot be allowed in adolescent or adult dogs – it is extremely easy to build your puppy’s confidence so that she no longer feels the need to defend her food bowl, bones, and toys from people.

If you ever sense your puppy (or older dog) is even a little bit possessive or protective of any object, do something about it immediately. The requisite confidence-building exercises are described below. If you think the problem is beyond your control, seek help immediately while your puppy is still a puppy because object guarding starts during puppyhood . Owners may fail to notice their adolescent dog becoming increasingly possessive and protective. Some may actually encourage their puppy’s protective displays, thinking they are cute.

It is natural for dogs to protect their possessions: in the wild, a wolf would hardly pop next door to borrow a cup of bones. Domestic dogs quickly learn that once something is gone, it is gone. So it’s not surprising to find dogs trying to keep their possessions away from people.

Bitches are more likely to guard objects than male dogs. In a domestic pack, it is fairly common to see a very low-ranking bitch successfully defend her bone from a relatively high-ranking male dog. In fact, the ‘Bitch’s First Amendment to Male Hierarchical Law’ is: “I have it, and you don’t!”.

With male dogs, object-guarding is more common among middle-ranking insecure male dogs. In fact, nothing better advertises insecurity and lack of confidence than object guarding — definitely not “top dog behavior.” In fact, true top dogs are usually confident in their position and are often quite willing to share a bone, toy, or food bowl with lower-ranking individuals.

If you frequently take food or toys away from your puppy and she never gets them back, your pup will learn that relinquishing an object likely means she will never see it again. Understandably, your pup might develop behaviours to keep objects away from you. She may run and hide with the object, hold on tight with her jaws, growl, snarl and maybe snap.

If you find you are backing down when your puppy is protecting any object, and are at a loss for what to do, seek help from a professional dog behaviourist. This problem will quickly get out of hand and soon you will have an adult dog backing you down. Retraining adult dogs that are protective of valued objects is complicated, time-consuming, and not without danger. You will definitely require assistance from an experienced trainer or behaviourist. On the other hand, preventing this in puppyhood is easy and safe.

First make sure that your puppy develops a strong chewtoy habit. If she always wants to play with her chewtoys, she won’t seek out inappropriate objects that need to be taken away. Additionally, teach your pup to voluntarily relinquish her chewtoys on request.

Basically, you have to teach your puppy that voluntarily relinquishing an object does not mean losing it for good. Your puppy should learn that giving up bones, toys, and tissues means receiving something better in return — praise and treats — and also later getting back the original object.

The Token System: Exchanging Valued Commodities for Treats

: Start working with objects that both you and your puppy can hold at the same time, such as a rolled newspaper or a KONG on a rope. Physical contact is a very big part of the possession game. Your puppy is less likely to protect an object if you still have hold of it. However, as soon as you let go, your pup becomes more likely to defend her prize.

: As practiced in the previous exercise, tell your puppy “Off” and then “Take it.” Waggle the object in front of her muzzle enticingly.
: Praise your puppy when she takes hold but do not let go of the object!
: Say, “Puppy, Thank you”, stop waggling the object to encourage your puppy to stop tugging and with your other hand, waggle a very tasty treat (dried liver treats) in front of her nose.
: Praise your puppy as soon as she opens her mouth and you have regained full possession of the object.
: Continue praising as you offer one, two, or three treats (maybe luring the puppy to sit or lie down as you do so). Then instruct your pup to take the object again and repeat the procedure.
: When your puppy has promptly relinquished the object upon request five times in a row, you may let go of the object each time. Now you are ready to work with smaller objects, such as a KONG without a rope, tennis balls, sterilised bones, or other toys.
: Once your pup eagerly takes and gives promptly, simply drop or toss the object and say, “Thank you”. Your pup will pick up the object and drop it in your hand.
: And there you go – your very own faithful retriever pup!

Retrieving is a lot of fun and good exercise. It has numerous applications, such as looking for lost keys, fetching slippers, and clearing up dog toys. Most puppies love retrieving and quickly develop confidence about surrendering objects. They temporarily swap their toys for treats, the owner safely holds the toy while they enjoy the treat, and then they get the toy back to exchange for more treats. In fact, some puppies enjoy proffering objects so much that it may become a bother to the owner. If your pup offers too many unsolicited presents, simply instruct her: “Take it to your bed”. In fact, this is one of the best ways to teach your puppy to clear up her toys.

By teaching your puppy to retrieve objects, what had intrinsic value as a toy now has additional value as a token that may be exchanged for praise and rewards. Playing fetch with your puppy is a wonderful way to supercharge her toys, increase their effectiveness as lures and rewards for training, and greatly increase the likelihood that a bored puppy will seek out her toys to play with rather than inappropriate household or outdoor articles.

Once the above exchange exercises are working, increase the intrinsic value of the objects by stuffing the KONG or sterilised bone with treats. Before your puppy is ten weeks old, you should also repeat the following confidence-building exercise many times. Even with a ten-week-old puppy, I would advise having an assistant for these exercises:
: Tie a length of stout string to one end of a meaty bone. Should the pup growl, have your assistant yank on the string to pull the bone away, and quickly cover it with a plastic bucket or bin.
: The plastic bucket may also be used to cover the pup’s food bowl should the pup act up during food bowl exercises.
: Don’t waste time reprimanding the pup for growling. Instead, make sure to praise and reward your puppy as soon as she stops growling.
: Additionally, you must make sure that a growling puppy immediately loses her bone or food bowl. Many puppies will initially growl when food is removed. These are not bad dogs; they are normal dogs. Growling is quite natural. However, your puppy must learn that growling doesn’t work so that this behaviour does not escalate and continue into adolescence. As your puppy develops confidence, she will learn that there is no reason to growl because you have no intention of stealing her food.
: When the puppy stops growling, praise her, back up, and have her sit and lie down, give her back the object, and then repeat the procedure.

If you have problems with object and food guarding exercises, seek help immediately. Do not wait until your puppy is three months old.

The Food Bowl

Many old-time dog training books advise not going near a dog when it is eating. Whereas it may be sound advice to let a trustworthy adult dog eat in peace, this does not mean letting untrained puppies eat alone. If a pup grows up eating alone, she may not want her mealtimes disturbed as an adult. Eventually, someone is bound to bother the dog when she is eating, whereupon she may respond in a characteristically canine, food-protective fashion and growl, snarl, snap, lunge and maybe even bite.

By all means, tell people not to bother your dog when she is eating, but first be certain your puppy is totally trustworthy around her food bowl. Teach your puppy not simply to tolerate people around her food bowl, but to thoroughly look forward to dinner-time guests:

: Hold your pup’s bowl while she eats kibble.
: Offer tasty treats and handle the puppy, and she will learn her dinners are more enjoyable when people are present with petting and treats.
: Let the puppy eat kibble from her bowl, offer a tasty treat, and then temporarily remove the bowl as the puppy enjoys the treat.
: Then try removing the bowl prior to offering a treat. Your pup will soon look forward to your removing the bowl and the kibble, since it signals a tasty treat is imminent.
: As your puppy is eating dry kibble from her bowl, quickly put your hand in the bowl and offer a tasty treat.
: Give your puppy time to re-investigate the dry kibble, to check for more treats, and to recommence eating.
: Then plunge your hand in the bowl and offer another treat.
: Repeat this several times. Your pup will soon become accustomed and look forward to sudden hand movements around her food bowl. This exercise impresses puppies no end — it’s like the magician who pulls a flower, an egg, or a dove from behind someone’s ear.

Sit with your puppy while she is eating and have family members and friends walk by. Each time someone approaches, spoon a small dollop of canned food on top of the kibble. Your puppy will quickly make the association between approaching people and juicy canned food being added to her kibble. Later, have family and friends approach and toss a treat into the puppy’s bowl. Soon your puppy will welcome the dinnertime presence and presents of people.

The Delinquent Waiter Routine

Have you ever been kept waiting in a restaurant, eating bread and drinking water yet you haven’t even ordered? “Where is the waiter? I wish he would hurry up; I’m starving!”. Well, the delinquent waiter routine prompts the same reaction in puppies. Most will beg you to approach their food bowl:

: Weigh out your puppy’s dinner kibble in a bowl on the counter and then put the pup’s bowl on the floor with only one piece of kibble. Try to capture your puppy’s reaction on camera. She will look at the bowl with disbelief. Your pup will look back and forth between you and her bowl, gobble down the one piece of kibble, and then thoroughly sniff the empty bowl.
: Casually walk away from the bowl and busy yourself. Maybe inquire as to whether or not your puppy enjoyed her dinner. “Was everything to your liking, Ma’am? Are you ready for second course?”.
: Wait until your puppy begs for more, walk over, pick up her bowl, place in one more piece of kibble, wait for the pup to sit, and then put her bowl on the floor.

Your puppy will become calmer and her manners will improve with each “course.” Also, by feeding your puppy’s dinner in many small courses, you will teach her to welcome your approaches.

My Puppy Chews His Lead!

2011-01-17T09:34:00.000-08:00

Quite often during my puppy training classes owners will ask me how to get their puppy to stop biting on the lead when out on a walk. The pup doesn't have any interest at all when the lead is on the floor or hung up on the wall but as soon as it's connected to his collar, they start to bite, chew and tug at it. Naturally, not a lot of pleasant walking happens as owner fights pup for the lead and control of the walk!

Thankfully, the answer is really simple and incredible efficient:

1: Teach your puppy a "take it" or "leave it" cue so that your dog understands when to leave something alone. This cue alone is worth its weight in gold. Start training with a toy first rather than the lead. A few short 10 minute training sessions will be all that's required for the puppy to learn what is expected of them. Download my free 'Teach your dog to leave' top tip here for a very easy 'how to' teach your dog to leave something.

2: When you've taught your pup to "leave it", when you connect the lead and set off on your walk, as soon as the puppy takes the lead in his mouth, simply instruct him to leave it, praise, reward and continue the walk.

Some dogs like things in their mouths (a lot of the working breeds like Labradors and Golden Retrievers do and do Bulldogs, too) so give them a toy to walk with - perhaps a toy reserved just for walkies. While I'm on the topic of taking toys on walks, stop and have a think about what the walk means to your dog: he may well run free, play with other dogs, sniff lots, run and walk happily with you but all of these things are good things that happen without coming directly from you; you're not a part of any of these. The dog sees his off-leash time running in the park as a time for freedom and away from you who restricts him to the lead and simply escorts him to the park where ll the fun happens. Now compare this image with one where, while walking, you frequently give your puppy cues like "sit", "heel", "down", "touch" etc as you walk. Then, when you let puppy off-leash, you've brought a toy with you and play tug, fetch, chase and "find it!". All of these things happen because of your presence - they come directly from you.

Take a toy and treats (and poo bags!) on the walk so you can have some fun play time to get that puppy energy out, bond with your pup, drastically increase the chances of puppy returning to you when called (as you've demonstrated how much fun you are) and enjoy the walk more.

Hounds For Heroes

2011-01-06T03:39:00.000-08:00

Hounds for Heroes

PetCompare | 2010/12/22 09:39:22

A charity that looks to provide trained assistance dogs to injured and disabled men and women of both the UK armed forces and civilian emergency services

Petcompare offers support to Hounds for Heroes a charity that looks to provide specially trained assistance dogs to injured and disabled men and women of both the UK armed forces and civilian emergency services. Initially "Hounds for Heroes" intends to raise £100,000 to buy 5 Labradors, the Puppies on Parade Appeal, these dogs will be carefully selected for all the qualities needed to produce excellent assistance dogs. The Charity will carefully select puppy parents to start with this very essential part of their training. After around 15 months the specialist training will start, with a combination of puppy parents and the new owner. All the time the puppies will be meeting on a weekly basis to carry out socialisation and specialist training. When the dogs are fully trained the ownership will be fully transferred to the new owner.

Hounds for Heroes Founder:
In 1991, Allen Parton was a Chief Petty Officer serving in the Royal Navy during the Gulf War. He had a very promising military career ahead of him and a wife and two children at home in Portsmouth. Then a tragic war time incident changed his life completely. Allen suffered a severe head injury which left him with considerable physical and emotional trauma. It wiped out his memories and left him unable to walk, speak or write. He couldn't even remember getting married or the birth of his children. He spent the next five years in hospital, struggling to come to terms with his disabilities.

Then Allen was partnered with Endal, a yellow Labrador assistance dog. Since then, Allen's confidence has returned to such an extent that he cannot stop talking about how much Endal transformed his life. Endal helped to save Allen's marriage and helped to rebuild a relationship with his children. He became independent and Sandra no longer has to be on call twenty-four hours a day, seven days a week, allowing her the freedom and peace of mind to live her own life again.

Endal could respond to over one hundred commands and could also problem solve. One day when Allen was struggling to reach up to withdraw money from a cashpoint machine, Endal instinctively jumped up, took the money and card in his mouth and passed it to Allen. On another occasion, Endal demonstrated his ability to react in an emergency. When visiting Crufts in 2001, Allen was knocked out of his wheelchair by a speeding car and left unconscious in a car park. The driver was in a deep state of shock, so Endal took charge and pulled Allen into the recovery position, covered him with a blanket and fetched his mobile phone. Getting no response Endal then left Allen's side and went to a nearby hotel and raised the alarm.

This amazing partnership starting Allen thinking about setting up a new charity to help the disabled of the Armed Forces and Emergency Service. Allen says "it has been a dream of mine to have a charity that works specifically for these people who routinely put their lives in danger. "Hounds for Heroes" is our chance of giving people the same chances that I have had. We owe them a great debt and this is our way of saying thank you"

Sadly Endal died in Spring 2009 but the partnership keeps going and Allen is pictured above with EJ (Endal Junior) who is the first dogs to be trained under the auspices of Hounds for Heroes.

To Find out how you can get involved in supporting "Hounds for Heroes" visit www.houndsforheroes.com.

Pets as Christmas Presents

2010-12-09T03:33:00.000-08:00

With Christmas approaching fast and letters to Santa in the process of being sent, there will always be the controversial issue of whether Christmas is a responsible time to give the gift of a pet. Many people feel that it is not. However we at PetCompare believe that under the right circumstances this should not be the case.

Lee Hodgson MD PetCompare wrote
"Last year i bought my son a hamster for Christmas. Believe me it took a fair few months to persuade me that this was not just a phase and that his enthusiasm wasn't just to be short lived. Once convinced, I maintained my opinion that in order for him to be a responsible pet owner he had to know exactly how to look after his hamster. Therefore rather than going straight out to the nearest Pet Shop to buy the first hamster we saw, I decided to buy him a 'handling and care' booklet and some information leaflets on the types of breed and their characteristics."

"Amazingly he read through this collection several times and still continued to pester me on the subject. It was mid-December by this time and I came to the conclusion that as he hadn't asked me specifically for anything else, that this would be the ideal gift for him. After several conversations about what he had found out and armed with research I had carried out myself and his 'favourite colour' I set out on my mission to find his hamster and all the necessary amenities that come with it. (Believe me it wasn't cheap!)"

"I must admit that after the initial struggle of trying to keep this secret from a very inquisitive little boy until Christmas morning was over, the look of absolute joy and adoration was worth every moment. From the very start, he appreciated the fragility of these little creatures and thanks to my paper purchases knew exactly how to handle and play with his new pet. To this day 'Hammy' and my son are still very good friends and we are looking forward to his first birthday on the 25th December!"

We at PetCompare believe, any pet purchased at any time of year, be it a tiny mouse or a horse, should only be bought after a carefully thought out process. This includes understanding the impact and responsibility of taking them into your care. It is very much a decision that needs to be made and agreed by the entire family. I think the following factors are the most important to take into account:

1. Does the person you are buying for really want a pet and the responsibility that pet ownership includes?

2. Does every member of the household want and accept responsibility for the pet?

3. Does this person have the time and lifestyle to adequately care for the pet?

4. Are they knowledgeable about the type of pet that they want; about its needs, its handling, its temperament and the time needed to be spent with it?

5. Finally and very importantly, do they have the finances to support the pet? Vets bills, insurance, adequate housing, food, bedding, pet sitters to name just a few of the costs.

Unfortunately a large amount of pets end up in rescue centres every year because the owners are just not properly prepared for their arrival and the impact on their lifestyle that their new pet entails. Pets can be a fantastic addition to any family; they are lots of fun and can be great companions in many circumstances.

However, please remember that they cannot care for themselves. If you are thinking about buying a friend or relative a pet this Christmas please do so with great caution. If you feel that the answer to any of the above questions is no then I advise you strongly to reconsider. Check with the person first, and make a considered decision. Please don't surprise them, they may feel obliged to accept the gift only for them to later have to re-home the pet. This is not only stressful for the owner but can have a huge impact on the pet.

Without trying to sound too cliché, "a pet IS for life, not just for Christmas". I implore you to keep this in mind.

The Training Series: Training your pet bird

2010-11-26T01:47:00.000-08:00

Teaching your pet new tricks is enormous fun for both of you and since birds get bored very easily, they need something to occupy their time. This is particularity important for birdies, who can start to peck themselves when bored. To prevent her from doing so, we’ve sourced the ultimate training guide for your chirper.

a) If your bird does something good, be sure to give her a treat. If this is in the form of food, beware not to over-feed her. A limited number for treats will help to keep your sessions short, so your bird won’t lose interest. If you finish your sessions on a high, she’ll be excited to play again soon.

b) Never punish your bird. Not only will punishment confuse her, she may just be acting up for attention and your reaction would be exactly what she is looking for. It goes without saying that you must never hit your bird, as she is incredibly fragile. If she is acting up, ignore her. This will be punishment enough, as she craves your attention.

c) Pick training times carefully. Your bird should not be distracted by anything else when you are working together as this will make your sessions far less effective. Make sure she has eaten, isn’t preoccupied with preening, and there is nothing exciting going on in the vicinity.

d) Once you have mastered a trick, wean your bird off rewards. You should still be rewarding her, but don’t get her into a habit of only performing when she knows you have a treat for her. Continue to praise, and treat sparingly, she’ll soon be happy to do tricks for just your praise.

e) The most important trick to teach your tweeter is how to hop on and off your hand, her perch, the windowsill, the fridge…. It’s a nice easy trick to learn, but the benefits are spectacular. It’s also a good exercise to go back to if you want to finish your training sessions on a high note. Although your bird will soon be using this trick every day, sometimes at the end of an unproductive session it’s ok to treat her for doing the hopping trick to keep up morale.

f) If your bird is not responding well to learning a new trick, consider changing location. Sometimes being near her cage is distracting for her, and an unfamiliar environment may improve learning.

View the other posts in our training series here:

Training a new rabbit

Training a new kitten

Training a new puppy

The training series: Training a new rabbit

2010-11-25T03:31:00.000-08:00

Gone are the days when rabbits sit in hutches, munching solitarily on a carrot and wishing they could play inside with us in the warmth of our homes. Now our ‘bugs bunnies’ are just as welcome inside as they are out and, what’s more, they’re mighty intelligent and love to learn new tricks.

To get you started, here’s the third in our training series, providing you with a

few pointers on how to train your new rabbit:

1. Time: For effective training results, you need to devote at least one hour each day to training your rabbit. Results won’t happen immediately, but if you stick to your training regime, it will only take a few weeks for you to achieve results. Just because your bunny is highly intelligent doesn’t mean he or she will learn how to do a roly-poly in day one. Remember to have fun with your training; if it becomes a chore for you, just imagine how it must feel for the rabbit. Make sure you are both enjoying yourselves and the time will fly by.

2. Teaching skills: When teaching your rabbit, always be consistent. Make sure you use the same commands each time such as ‘sit’ or ‘up’ – your rabbit will soon recognise what each request means and don’t forget to accompany each command with a treat. Your rabbit will soon associate these words with a reward. Once your rabbit understands the skills and effort required, gradually start to wean it off the treats. Eventually your rabbit will obey all commands without expecting anything.

3. Potty training: Surprisingly, an older rabbit is easier to ‘potty train’ than a younger one because they have already established personal grooming habits. Remember, be patient with your bunny. While it is living in a hutch, your pet will usually find a favourite ‘bathroom’ spot. Once you’ve worked out where this is, place the litter tray there and bunny should start using it. When you let your rabbit loose in the house, it should return to where the litter tray is placed.

4. Incentives: Rabbits don’t understand yelling, but are very intelligent and will respond to treats. Try to figure out your rabbit’s favourite treat and don’t stop dishing out the treats too soon. You need to establish consistency, so if you stop treating your pet before it completely understands what you expect, it will lose interest fast. Always check with your vet if you are unsure about what your rabbit can eat.

5. A misbehaving rabbit: Do not, under any circumstances, hit your rabbit for not co-operating with you. Your rabbit will not understand what is happening. Consider a ‘time out’ zone back in its hutch to highlight any wrongdoing.

The training series: Training a new kitten

2010-11-01T02:06:00.000-07:00

New kittens are a delight to have in your home and bring bundles of joy. But the furry little balls of fluff do require training to help them settle into their new environment and to ensure they don’t claw your lounge suite.

The second in our training series provides you with tips and advice on training your new kitten:

1. Establish your kitten’s “den” – Show your kitten where it can sleep. Set up its bed, food and water bowls in a dry, secure and safe area. Cats and kittens like to hide, so make sure there are suitable nooks and crannies for your new kitten to snuggle into. A soft cat bed is ideal or a cat sleeping bag.

2. Toilet training – Even if you intend your kitten to be an indoor cat, kittens must stay inside until they have received their inoculations at your chosen vet. Therefore, you will need to teach your kitten to be toilet trained; don’t expect they already know what to do. The first step is to introduce your kitten to its new litter tray. The tray should be big enough for the kitten to move around in. If you’ve ever watched a kitten or cat use its litter tray, they circle around inside and establish a spot before going to the toilet. After your kitten eats, let it have a rest or play and then 15 minutes later encourage your kitten over to the tray and entice it to step onto the litter. You want to make sure your kitten knows the tray is a safe, clean and comfortable place.

Use a litter scooper to dispose of the ‘presents’ you will find in the tray and kitty litter freshening powder is an option to keep the tray smelling of roses. Cats are known for being very fastidious animals, so if the tray is not cleaned out on a regular basis they will find somewhere else to soil. Never put the litter tray near your kitten’s food or sleeping area, this can put them off their food and sleeping den.

3. Scratching post or couch? Kittens have little claws that aren’t that sharp but as your kitten grows, so do its claws. If you have a kitten that goes outside, its claws will become blunt while climbing trees and playing outdoors. However, an indoor cat needs somewhere to scratch and a scratching post is the best option. You can get scratching posts in all shapes and sizes; some even have hiding holes and toys attached to keep your kitten entertained. Encourage your kitten to scratch on it daily, lend a hand and show your kitten how to scratch. Don’t forget to praise your kitten for getting it right.

4. Praise your kitten – Praising your kitten for using its litter tray and scratching post is an important way for it to learn when it has done something right. Just like you would with a child, make a fuss over your kitten by talking to it, giving it a cuddle and stroking it. Occasionally you can reward your pet with special kitten treats.

But what do you do when your kitten behaves badly?

5. Kitten disciple: NEVER hit your kitten or cat if it is naughty. The best thing to remember is don’t reward bad behaviour. Do the opposite of praising your kitten. Don’t make a fuss of it, don’t talk to it, ignore your kitten and walk away from it. Your kitten needs to associate the differences between negative and positive attitudes and rewards.

Most importantly, have fun with your kitten. Play time with toys and evening cuddles are so rewarding.

Let bonfire night go off without a bang

2010-10-27T01:12:00.000-07:00

According to vets, each year, hundreds of pets are harmed by fireworks on bonfire night each year, and many more run away in fear. It is a scary world out there for a petrified pooch, and combined with a dark, cold, November night being lost often results in getting in harm’s way, sometimes fatally.

However, with these 10 easy-to-follow steps you can ensure your feline is feelin’ fine this Guy Fawkes night. We have talked to numerous vets from all over the country, from inner-city bunny buffs, to rural equestrian experts, and here are our essential bonfire steps:

1. Bring your pets indoors and draw the curtains to keep them as safe as possible during Bonfire Night.

2. Don’t forget small pets such as rabbits or guinea pigs. They can become very stressed by loud noises. If they live outside, bring them indoors for the Bonfire period so they feel as safe and relaxed as possible.

3. If your pet has a favourite den, encourage them to stay there during the fireworks. The more comfortable and secure they feel, the less scared they will be. If they don’t have a favourite spot, try to create one in the days running up to Bonfire Night by coaxing your pet there with healthy treats, toys and blankets.

4. If your dog or cat hides during the fireworks you should try to leave it alone. They have clearly found a space that works for them and want to be left in peace. Fussing over them can cause more stress.

5. Play music or turn up the television to drown out noise from fireworks. Your pet’s ears are generally two to three times as sensitive as yours, so anything to disguise the noise contributes to their well being.

6. From most vets you can purchase a simple plug-in diffuser that disperses a dog/cat appeasing pheromone into the room. The pheromone reassures the animal and naturally calms it down. You should aim to plug in the diffuser a week before Bonfire Night, so the pheromone has time to build up to significant levels and ensures your pets are as relaxed as possible.

7. If there’s a chance your pet will run away, make sure it is wearing a collar and is micro chipped. You should try to secure your home as best you can so your pet cannot escape if it becomes particularly terrified.

8. Make sure you walk your dog during daylight hours, and try to tire your pet so it sleeps through the firework hours.

9. In rural areas, advise neighbours that you are planning a fireworks display so that they can make provision for their pets. Horses, in particular, have a tendency to bolt at loud noises, but are often the forgotten victims on Bonfire Night.

10. Even better, have a firework-free Guy Fawkes’ that both your pets and kids can enjoy! Have a fear-free bonfire where you can toast marshmallows; dress up a Guy to burn; wave around sparklers and go wild with the glitter. If you are having a bonfire though, be sure to check bonfires for hibernating animals such as hedgehogs and frogs before lighting.

Tips and advice for exercising your pet

2010-10-25T01:37:00.000-07:00

What type of pet do you own and how much exercise and training does it require each day?

Humans require daily exercise to help maintain healthy bones, weight and for general wellbeing to make us feel good and to have the energy required to live day to day. Pets are no different. Daily exercise will contribute to keeping your pet happy and healthy and, in most instances, help towards extending your pet’s life.

However, your pet is not capable of planning its own exercise regime so as a responsible pet owner you can make sure it has a regular exercise programme.

No question, lifestyle and work commitments can sometimes get in the way of exercise – many of us have been culprits of joining the local gym, paying monthly fees in excess of £50 and then never attending. When you’re looking after yourself you can let it pass but not when you’re accountable for another living creature.

When you cannot take your dog for a run, why not find a trustworthy dog walker to call on when you aren’t available? Perhaps your horse is kept in working stables where someone can exercise it on the days you cannot. You may have a willing neighbour or friend that can help out occasionally? Whatever your circumstances, make sure you have a back-up plan.

Just as humans can’t instantly run a marathon, pets also need to start slowly and require easing into exercise. Simple games with balls and toys count as exercise and are huge fun for both you and your pet.

If you have a rabbit, make sure you have a safe secure rabbit run. Exercise balls for gerbils and hamsters are a great way for them to safely stretch their legs around your house while in a secure enclosed environment. Indoor birds in small cages must stretch their wings, so close all the windows and doors to a room and let them fly around. If you’re a mouse lover, a wheel inside its cage is a must; you’ll find that because rodents are nocturnal animals they will play and make tunnels while you’re asleep!

Whatever your pet, there are numerous ways for it to enjoy exercise. Remember, different pets require varying levels of exercise so it is advisable to discuss the best exercise regime with your local vet.

The training series: Training a new puppy

2010-10-20T04:45:00.000-07:00

We all love to dote on our purrfect pets but it's important to establish a clear training regime to keep your best fur-friends calm and content. This is the first in our training series giving you the tools and advice to become an expert trainer.

To get started, we've put together some easy to follow tips for training new puppies:

Training your puppy

The first few days are critical to establish a routine. Don't let your puppy get into bad habits by jumping up, sleeping on your bed or going into rooms that are out of bounds.
Make sure your puppy feels safe and secure and you'll be rewarded with a quick response to your training efforts. Set up a small area that she can call her own, with all the home comforts to stop her missing her mum.
Give your puppy some breathing space. If she needs to sleep, make sure you give her the time to do so. A grumpy puppy is far more difficult to manage.
Set your own schedule and designate tasks to family members. Consistency in training is essential and will help your puppy become accustomed to her surroundings and avoid teething problems.
Be patient. Don't expect the house training process to be completed until your puppy is at least six months old. Accidents happen and over reacting will be detrimental to the process.
Use the paper trick. Paper your puppy's room so she gets used to toileting on a papery surface. She will gradually start to ‘go’ in only one area. At that point, reduce the paper to cover just that area. Once your puppy gets used to ‘going’ on paper you can move the paper to the location of your choice and eventually outside.
Avoid accidents by using the lead. Keep your puppy on a lead when she is allowed to explore the rest of the house. This close contact means your puppy can be quickly returned to her room whenever required.
The more time you spend with your puppy, the quicker she will be toilet trained. Take the puppy to her toilet area every time she needs to go and she will soon catch on.
Give rewards when they are due. When your puppy makes it to the toilet area, reward her with a treat so she associates it with good behaviour. Never punish your puppy - she is too young to understand.
Don’t forget to have fun! Although accidents can be frustrating, it’s important to take the time to enjoy your new family member. Give her love and she will become the heart of the family.

Socializing your pet: some advice and tips

2010-10-14T08:02:00.000-07:00

Welcoming your pet

If you're thinking of purchasing a new pet, it's important to spend time welcoming it in to the family. There are some dogs do not take kindly to small children, an elderly cat may object to a spritely puppy and a bird may not welcome an inquisitive kitten.

No matter which pet you choose, you'll need to spend time helping the new addition to feel at home and learn how to behave amongst their new human housemates.

Most animals can be socialized to some extent but the larger the animal, the greater the need to ensure they understand their place in the family.

Settling in

Before you start to train your pet, set some bonding time aside so they feel comfortable with you. Once your new pet is settled in to your home, invite some of your friends to the house to visit. This will help the pet to become more comfortable around loud noises and fast movements, which is very important to training. Of course, small children should always be supervised around a new pet to keep them both safe and happy.

Younger pets are by nature easier to socialize, as they are more likely to feel comfortable in a crowded environment. Older animals will have formed their own routines which can be challenging to break.

Finding the balance

Balance is the key to a happy introduction. Too much independence and your dog, cat, rabbit or bird will believe they control you. This can cause them to act out. Everything your pet does is an instinct, which cannot be taken away but it is possible for animals to learn the difference between good and bad.

Equally, good behaviour should be rewarded with attention. Sometimes attention feels better to a pet than a treat because they want to please you.

Where to get started

There are detailed advice guides on offer which will help you integrate your chosen pet in to your family. Whether you choose an online guide or splash out on a trainer, your pet will benefit from the process as will your family. Make socializing your pet fun and you will find your animal will quickly behave better in social situations. Never opt for striking your pet as this will have the opposite effect.

To help you get started, we've pulled together some top resources from across the web, broken down by breed. If you have any specific questions, feel free to share them in the comments box below or contact us through Twitter via @petcompare.

Some advice resources

How to socialize a puppy
How to socialize a cat
How to socialize a bird
How to socialize a rabbit

Cost of owning pets

2010-10-05T03:11:00.000-07:00

It is no secret, the cost of owning pets can escalate. Before you know it “Fluffy” has a fake fur sleeping blanket, diamante collar and gold plated food bowl, all because you want to make sure she is the happiest cat on earth. With the vast array of accessible pet products on the market, the options are endless for pet lovers like us to spoil our beloved animals.

Before you pick your perfect pet it’s important to consider the cost implications. Like any passion, the start-up costs are always going to be high – initial cost of your pet: purchase the pet, vet appointments, vaccinations, neutering, toys, food, the list goes on.

While you’re paying off your “pet debt” have you considered what happens if your beloved animal were to fall ill or be injured? Do you have a high disposable income to pay for those expensive vet bills, which can equate to thousands? A far more cost effective solution is pet insurance - with minimum payments as low as £5.00 per month, it is a no brainer.

Do you have any stories to share about the benefits of taking out pet insurance?

Lifestyle and environment

2010-10-05T00:15:00.000-07:00

Would you have a child without preparing yourself and reading the ‘what to expect when you’re expecting’ books first?

Would you spend thousands of pounds on a brand new car without test driving it first to see which model and brand suits your lifestyle and budget?
Neither would we!

Equipping yourself with knowledge and insight before leaping into the purchase of a pet is vital to ensure you choose the pet best suited to your lifestyle.

Top tip: Test drive your pets!
Visit pet shelters, breeders and pet events such as Discover Dogs, Earls Court, London November 2010 or Supreme Cat Show, Birmingham, November 2010, to see if the pet of your dreams is right for you.

Your lifestyle and environment will help you determine the perfect pet. If you’re someone who enjoys late nights at the pub and finds it hard to get out of bed in the morning, then a dog that requires walking both morning and night may not be ideal. However, if you’re a stay at home parent with children or you work from home, you will most likely have more time to care for a puppy or kitten and give it all the attention and training it requires.

Consider the environment you live in:

- Flat, terraced, semi detached or detached house? Remember, larger animals need plenty of space and may become frustrated and bored in a flat or small house
- Garden or no garden? Dogs and cats prefer having space to stretch their legs, so those without a garden may be wise to consider smaller pets such as rodents or fish
- Is there a common or large park near your house? Those with a smaller property can head to the local park to extend the exercise area for their pets
- Do you live on a busy main road? Roaming cats and flighty dogs do not mix well with motorways – a smaller animal, like a rabbit, might be best for you
- Do you live in a draughty, damp, hot, poorly ventilated or dirty environment? All animals need plenty of space, which is light and warm and their designated areas must be cleaned-out on a regular basis
- Does your landlord allow pets? Make sure you check your tenancy agreement and ask for email confirmation

The most important thing is that your pet is happy and healthy in the environment you provide.

Please tell us what pets you have and how you fit them into your lifestyle and environment…