“She’s a bit tricky around her food bowl”. It’s surprising how many adolescent dogs still display a tendency to guard food and objects, yet their owners do nothing about it. Whereas playful food and object guarding are quite normal, and to be expected, in developing puppies, defensive guarding behaviour cannot be allowed in adolescent or adult dogs – it is extremely easy to build your puppy’s confidence so that she no longer feels the need to defend her food bowl, bones, and toys from people.
If you ever sense your puppy (or older dog) is even a little bit possessive or protective of any object, do something about it immediately. The requisite confidence-building exercises are described below. If you think the problem is beyond your control, seek help immediately while your puppy is still a puppy because object guarding starts during puppyhood . Owners may fail to notice their adolescent dog becoming increasingly possessive and protective. Some may actually encourage their puppy’s protective displays, thinking they are cute.
It is natural for dogs to protect their possessions: in the wild, a wolf would hardly pop next door to borrow a cup of bones. Domestic dogs quickly learn that once something is gone, it is gone. So it’s not surprising to find dogs trying to keep their possessions away from people.
Bitches are more likely to guard objects than male dogs. In a domestic pack, it is fairly common to see a very low-ranking bitch successfully defend her bone from a relatively high-ranking male dog. In fact, the ‘Bitch’s First Amendment to Male Hierarchical Law’ is: “I have it, and you don’t!”.
With male dogs, object-guarding is more common among middle-ranking insecure male dogs. In fact, nothing better advertises insecurity and lack of confidence than object guarding — definitely not “top dog behavior.” In fact, true top dogs are usually confident in their position and are often quite willing to share a bone, toy, or food bowl with lower-ranking individuals.
If you frequently take food or toys away from your puppy and she never gets them back, your pup will learn that relinquishing an object likely means she will never see it again. Understandably, your pup might develop behaviours to keep objects away from you. She may run and hide with the object, hold on tight with her jaws, growl, snarl and maybe snap.
If you find you are backing down when your puppy is protecting any object, and are at a loss for what to do, seek help from a professional dog behaviourist. This problem will quickly get out of hand and soon you will have an adult dog backing you down. Retraining adult dogs that are protective of valued objects is complicated, time-consuming, and not without danger. You will definitely require assistance from an experienced trainer or behaviourist. On the other hand, preventing this in puppyhood is easy and safe.
First make sure that your puppy develops a strong chewtoy habit. If she always wants to play with her chewtoys, she won’t seek out inappropriate objects that need to be taken away. Additionally, teach your pup to voluntarily relinquish her chewtoys on request.
Basically, you have to teach your puppy that voluntarily relinquishing an object does not mean losing it for good. Your puppy should learn that giving up bones, toys, and tissues means receiving something better in return — praise and treats — and also later getting back the original object.
The Token System: Exchanging Valued Commodities for Treats
: Start working with objects that both you and your puppy can hold at the same time, such as a rolled newspaper or a KONG on a rope. Physical contact is a very big part of the possession game. Your puppy is less likely to protect an object if you still have hold of it. However, as soon as you let go, your pup becomes more likely to defend her prize.
: As practiced in the previous exercise, tell your puppy “Off” and then “Take it.” Waggle the object in front of her muzzle enticingly.
: Praise your puppy when she takes hold but do not let go of the object!
: Say, “Puppy, Thank you”, stop waggling the object to encourage your puppy to stop tugging and with your other hand, waggle a very tasty treat (dried liver treats) in front of her nose.
: Praise your puppy as soon as she opens her mouth and you have regained full possession of the object.
: Continue praising as you offer one, two, or three treats (maybe luring the puppy to sit or lie down as you do so). Then instruct your pup to take the object again and repeat the procedure.
: When your puppy has promptly relinquished the object upon request five times in a row, you may let go of the object each time. Now you are ready to work with smaller objects, such as a KONG without a rope, tennis balls, sterilised bones, or other toys.
: Once your pup eagerly takes and gives promptly, simply drop or toss the object and say, “Thank you”. Your pup will pick up the object and drop it in your hand.
: And there you go – your very own faithful retriever pup!
Retrieving is a lot of fun and good exercise. It has numerous applications, such as looking for lost keys, fetching slippers, and clearing up dog toys. Most puppies love retrieving and quickly develop confidence about surrendering objects. They temporarily swap their toys for treats, the owner safely holds the toy while they enjoy the treat, and then they get the toy back to exchange for more treats. In fact, some puppies enjoy proffering objects so much that it may become a bother to the owner. If your pup offers too many unsolicited presents, simply instruct her: “Take it to your bed”. In fact, this is one of the best ways to teach your puppy to clear up her toys.
By teaching your puppy to retrieve objects, what had intrinsic value as a toy now has additional value as a token that may be exchanged for praise and rewards. Playing fetch with your puppy is a wonderful way to supercharge her toys, increase their effectiveness as lures and rewards for training, and greatly increase the likelihood that a bored puppy will seek out her toys to play with rather than inappropriate household or outdoor articles.
Once the above exchange exercises are working, increase the intrinsic value of the objects by stuffing the KONG or sterilised bone with treats. Before your puppy is ten weeks old, you should also repeat the following confidence-building exercise many times. Even with a ten-week-old puppy, I would advise having an assistant for these exercises:
: Tie a length of stout string to one end of a meaty bone. Should the pup growl, have your assistant yank on the string to pull the bone away, and quickly cover it with a plastic bucket or bin.
: The plastic bucket may also be used to cover the pup’s food bowl should the pup act up during food bowl exercises.
: Don’t waste time reprimanding the pup for growling. Instead, make sure to praise and reward your puppy as soon as she stops growling.
: Additionally, you must make sure that a growling puppy immediately loses her bone or food bowl. Many puppies will initially growl when food is removed. These are not bad dogs; they are normal dogs. Growling is quite natural. However, your puppy must learn that growling doesn’t work so that this behaviour does not escalate and continue into adolescence. As your puppy develops confidence, she will learn that there is no reason to growl because you have no intention of stealing her food.
: When the puppy stops growling, praise her, back up, and have her sit and lie down, give her back the object, and then repeat the procedure.
If you have problems with object and food guarding exercises, seek help immediately. Do not wait until your puppy is three months old.
The Food Bowl
Many old-time dog training books advise not going near a dog when it is eating. Whereas it may be sound advice to let a trustworthy adult dog eat in peace, this does not mean letting untrained puppies eat alone. If a pup grows up eating alone, she may not want her mealtimes disturbed as an adult. Eventually, someone is bound to bother the dog when she is eating, whereupon she may respond in a characteristically canine, food-protective fashion and growl, snarl, snap, lunge and maybe even bite.
By all means, tell people not to bother your dog when she is eating, but first be certain your puppy is totally trustworthy around her food bowl. Teach your puppy not simply to tolerate people around her food bowl, but to thoroughly look forward to dinner-time guests:
: Hold your pup’s bowl while she eats kibble.
: Offer tasty treats and handle the puppy, and she will learn her dinners are more enjoyable when people are present with petting and treats.
: Let the puppy eat kibble from her bowl, offer a tasty treat, and then temporarily remove the bowl as the puppy enjoys the treat.
: Then try removing the bowl prior to offering a treat. Your pup will soon look forward to your removing the bowl and the kibble, since it signals a tasty treat is imminent.
: As your puppy is eating dry kibble from her bowl, quickly put your hand in the bowl and offer a tasty treat.
: Give your puppy time to re-investigate the dry kibble, to check for more treats, and to recommence eating.
: Then plunge your hand in the bowl and offer another treat.
: Repeat this several times. Your pup will soon become accustomed and look forward to sudden hand movements around her food bowl. This exercise impresses puppies no end — it’s like the magician who pulls a flower, an egg, or a dove from behind someone’s ear.
Sit with your puppy while she is eating and have family members and friends walk by. Each time someone approaches, spoon a small dollop of canned food on top of the kibble. Your puppy will quickly make the association between approaching people and juicy canned food being added to her kibble. Later, have family and friends approach and toss a treat into the puppy’s bowl. Soon your puppy will welcome the dinnertime presence and presents of people.
The Delinquent Waiter Routine
Have you ever been kept waiting in a restaurant, eating bread and drinking water yet you haven’t even ordered? “Where is the waiter? I wish he would hurry up; I’m starving!”. Well, the delinquent waiter routine prompts the same reaction in puppies. Most will beg you to approach their food bowl:
: Weigh out your puppy’s dinner kibble in a bowl on the counter and then put the pup’s bowl on the floor with only one piece of kibble. Try to capture your puppy’s reaction on camera. She will look at the bowl with disbelief. Your pup will look back and forth between you and her bowl, gobble down the one piece of kibble, and then thoroughly sniff the empty bowl.
: Casually walk away from the bowl and busy yourself. Maybe inquire as to whether or not your puppy enjoyed her dinner. “Was everything to your liking, Ma’am? Are you ready for second course?”.
: Wait until your puppy begs for more, walk over, pick up her bowl, place in one more piece of kibble, wait for the pup to sit, and then put her bowl on the floor.
Your puppy will become calmer and her manners will improve with each “course.” Also, by feeding your puppy’s dinner in many small courses, you will teach her to welcome your approaches.
b) Never punish your bird. Not only will punishment confuse her, she may just be acting up for attention and your reaction would be exactly what she is looking for. It goes without saying that you must never hit your bird, as she is incredibly fragile. If she is acting up, ignore her. This will be punishment enough, as she craves your attention.
